So had the wife's Corolla in for service and got a couple free oil change coupons from the dealer due to a mishap with the Corolla. He said I could use them for the FJ, but it had 10K intervals. My 2011 has about 1500 miles now. 10K oil change intervals? Really? I drive in DFW area, so not real dirty. Do you guys agree with 10K under normal conditions?
Pseudo-Fed
Synthetic and 10K Oil Change Intervals? Really?
I would think Toyota did their research and wouldn't risk their reputation of a reliable brand by having you wait to long to do your oil changes. It is synthetic which does not break down as quickly as regular oil. If your not 100% comfortable go in and get a oil change early. It wouldn't hurt it any!
I use Amsoil. 25,000 between oil changes for me! It really depends on what fluids and filters they are using.
Lots of manufacturers are going this way but make sure the dealer actually uses the synthetic when they change it. On my wife's previous car, I let the dealer change the oil at 8K while it was in for a warranty issue and I noticed they only charged me $3/qt for oil. I went to the service manager and asked to see what kind of oil they used and it was conventional 10W-40. They probably would have denied my warranty when the engine froze up from going 10K on conventional oil that was thicker than allowed too. You can't trust anyone to touch your car these days, can you?
10K intervals, Wow. I think I would keep my eye on the oil and change it before it hits 10K. Especially on the first oil change. If it were my truck I would use regular Castrol oil and change it every 4K but that is just me.I like to see my oil clean at all times. LOL
Me 2. 10K syn, 5K filter.
What's the best way to go about oil testing? Through the dealer or other?
What's the best way to go about oil testing? Through the dealer or other?
My trips out west usually run about 3,000 to 3,500 round trip so what I do is figure two trips per oil change and I change the filter between trips. When you add in some local driving, I am probably running 7,500 per oil change (Mobil 1).
I also try to rotate tires at the same interval.
I also try to rotate tires at the same interval.
Good think about the new 2011 models is they use 0W-20, and that only comes in synthetic. So assuming they put in the correct weight, it has to be synthetic. You can always buy the oil and filter and take it in and just have them change it if you don't feel like doing that yourself.
Oil change intervals are getting longer, not just cause of better oil, but better engines that don't wear as much so the oil doesn't get as dirty. It's really a personal preference thing as to if you want to trust the engine/oil/filter combo. I just switched to M1 0W-40 and M1 Extended Performance Filter (I have an 07) so I plan to go ~8k miles for this next oil change and all in the future with this oil. I switched my girlfriend's F150 to M1 Extended Performance 5W-20, which they say is good for 15k miles, but I'll probably put ~12k on it, since her truck is rated for 7500 miles to begin with.
Oil change intervals are getting longer, not just cause of better oil, but better engines that don't wear as much so the oil doesn't get as dirty. It's really a personal preference thing as to if you want to trust the engine/oil/filter combo. I just switched to M1 0W-40 and M1 Extended Performance Filter (I have an 07) so I plan to go ~8k miles for this next oil change and all in the future with this oil. I switched my girlfriend's F150 to M1 Extended Performance 5W-20, which they say is good for 15k miles, but I'll probably put ~12k on it, since her truck is rated for 7500 miles to begin with.
With used oil analysis provided by Caterpillar SOS, I also found some surprises at least with the motor in my 2007 FJ
First of all, my motor has an issue with nitration. I'm wondering if this is why Amsoil released that TSB warning not to exceed the regular oil change interval with their filters, due to sludging and the filters plugging
Running a conventional oil, such as Valvoline 5W-30, the oil was clearly done before 4,000 miles: nitration and oxidation spikes
Running Mobil 1 0W-20 as a "winter" oil - our winters can drop to -40 - the nitration actually caused the oil to thicken to a solid xW-30 range. Around 11 cSt. Oil only had around 3,000 miles
Running Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40, the oil sheared a bit from a virgin 14 cSt to 12.4 cSt. However, all wear metals were VERY good after 7,700 miles running the dealership oil filter. No problem with fuel dilution, condensation, oxidation, or nitration
Running the made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W-30, had the same good results as the M1 ECF 0W-40, but it did NOT shear.
Tried Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40. Ditto
It's easiest for me to get the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 so that is what I run now. I suppose if my FJ had to sit outside in our winters, and not in a heated garage, i'd run a 0W-20 but probably have to change it very often
No personal experience with Royal Purple or Amsoil, but I do have a lot of respect for Amsoil. What I have read about RP, it may be fine in cool climates, but not appropriate for cold climates like min
First of all, my motor has an issue with nitration. I'm wondering if this is why Amsoil released that TSB warning not to exceed the regular oil change interval with their filters, due to sludging and the filters plugging
Running a conventional oil, such as Valvoline 5W-30, the oil was clearly done before 4,000 miles: nitration and oxidation spikes
Running Mobil 1 0W-20 as a "winter" oil - our winters can drop to -40 - the nitration actually caused the oil to thicken to a solid xW-30 range. Around 11 cSt. Oil only had around 3,000 miles
Running Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40, the oil sheared a bit from a virgin 14 cSt to 12.4 cSt. However, all wear metals were VERY good after 7,700 miles running the dealership oil filter. No problem with fuel dilution, condensation, oxidation, or nitration
Running the made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W-30, had the same good results as the M1 ECF 0W-40, but it did NOT shear.
Tried Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40. Ditto
It's easiest for me to get the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 so that is what I run now. I suppose if my FJ had to sit outside in our winters, and not in a heated garage, i'd run a 0W-20 but probably have to change it very often
No personal experience with Royal Purple or Amsoil, but I do have a lot of respect for Amsoil. What I have read about RP, it may be fine in cool climates, but not appropriate for cold climates like min
I have been running 10k intervals on M1 extended service (15k 5-30) for some time now. But I am always open to new info on this important topic.
So it would appear that a few guys here are sitting on some important data regarding their favorite ("best") oil.
Cummon guys cough it up. Lets here what you think is the best and why..
So it would appear that a few guys here are sitting on some important data regarding their favorite ("best") oil.
Cummon guys cough it up. Lets here what you think is the best and why..
I'm blown away and impressed at the level of "oil expertise" on this thread.
I just rolled into my Toyota dealership with 5k on the odometer of my 2011 for an oil change and yep, they said come back at 10k.
My first impression was that this has more to do with the "FREE" 24 months of basic maintenance on all new Toyotas, but according to the information above, my cynicism may not be so well founded.
Still, I will say this: I did manage to get a free oil change at that same dealership at 2k, and now at 5k I checked my oil dipstick and the color is considerably darker than when it was first changed/darker than the "fresh" synthetic oil.
Just my layman's observation. Not sure if that means it has broken down or is dirty or what, but I do spend most of my miles offroad in relatively harsh conditions and I can't help but be skeptical on the 10k interval recommended by Toyota.
I just rolled into my Toyota dealership with 5k on the odometer of my 2011 for an oil change and yep, they said come back at 10k.
My first impression was that this has more to do with the "FREE" 24 months of basic maintenance on all new Toyotas, but according to the information above, my cynicism may not be so well founded.
Still, I will say this: I did manage to get a free oil change at that same dealership at 2k, and now at 5k I checked my oil dipstick and the color is considerably darker than when it was first changed/darker than the "fresh" synthetic oil.
Just my layman's observation. Not sure if that means it has broken down or is dirty or what, but I do spend most of my miles offroad in relatively harsh conditions and I can't help but be skeptical on the 10k interval recommended by Toyota.
The BMW service is 15,000 miles. I change my jeep oil every winter and put about 5000 miles a year on it the FJ I drive on longer trips and about 10,000 a year so it gets done twice a year. My lawn mower is nine years old and the oil has never been changed and it starts one pull every time. Honda motor.
I have been using Amsoil 25K oil change intervals since 1980. No issues whatsoever. A word of caution... There is a lot of talk about extended drain intervals. Please be aware that there is a time limitation of 1yr as well.
Definitely an interesting topic. Amsoil has an oil filter they state is good for 15k miles. Is this a reliable claim? I've been a believer but not sure if anyone has info to prove otherwise. I know driving habits and conditions probably play into this but lets assume normal driving conditions, fwy/local mix. Would anyone advise against using their 25k oil and 15k filter, changing around 15k?
I started using Amsoil recently and I wouldn't have any reservations about doing that. They actually make a 25k mile filter that fits the FJ, it's just a bit bigger than the stock filter. I believe it's their version of the M1-209.
Just remember that the oil AND filters have a 1 year maximum use as well. For me that'll be the limiting factor, as I don't put anywhere near 25k miles, or even 15k miles, per year on my FJ.
Just remember that the oil AND filters have a 1 year maximum use as well. For me that'll be the limiting factor, as I don't put anywhere near 25k miles, or even 15k miles, per year on my FJ.
Here is a new study just released from AMSOIL. This may help in your decision process somewhat:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf
These days, I only drive 5k a year, so Amsoil Signature makes sense for me...I change it every July 
good stuff!!
good stuff!!
A little info on "shearing"
Viscosity Index Improvers (VII) are a polymer of which the molecules are much like a tangle of string. When they are cold the tangle shrinks, when they heat up the tangle expands.
To make a multi-viscosity engine oil, like an SAE 5W-30, you start with a thin "base" oil and add the VII to it.
When the oil is cold the VII shrinks and the thin oil flows easily passed the VII molecules. Viscosity is "resistance to flow" so in this case the oil flows easily so is regarded as thin at a low temperature such as - 25 deg C, eg. SAE 5W.
When the oil heats up, so does the VII and it expands. Now the thin oil (which has also thinned out as the temperature has increased) has difficulty passing the VII molecules, it flows slower, so it is described as being thicker, eg. SAE 30. However this means it is thicker at the high temperature (100 deg C) that engine oil is measured at than the non-VII treated oil would be.
Now VII molecules come in different sizes. Larger molecules are more effective at slowing oil flow, or thickening the oil. So less of a large molecule VII needs to be used to get the same multi-viscosity effect. You have to use more of a smaller molecule VII to get the same oil thickening effect.
BUT, and ain't there always a "but"! The larger VII molecules get "sheared" down easily, that is they get chopped up into smaller VII molecules, and then there isn't enough of them to provide the oil thickening effect. So what was an SAE 15W-40 made from a large molecule VII will become something like a SAE 5W-20 or worse. This is called "permanent shear", it is irreversible.
A multi-grade engine oil made from smaller molecule VIIs will cost more - more VII and it is more expensive - but will resist shear down.
Now where I've said "VII thickens the oil", you should realise that at low temperatures any oil is really thick. What a VII does is slow down the thinning of an oil as temperature rises. Comparing just the thin base oil with the thin base oil plus added VII, the base oil will be slightly thinner at low temperature (the VII will thicken the base oil slightly). As the temperature rises both oils thin out, just that the VII treated oil will thin out less over the same temperature rise, until at 100 deg C the VII treated oil will be considerably thicker than the base oil at 100 deg C.
Then there is "temporary shear". This is where a VII treated oil passes between two moving surfaces, the piston rings and the cylinder wall is a great example. In that narrow gap the VII molecule tends to get stretched out from a tangle into a line and its oil thickening effect is lessened. However when it gets out of that stretch zone, the VII moecule returns again to its tangled state and its oil thickening effect returns. Thats temporary VII shear.
Best this you can do for your motor is learn to let it warm up before driving away.
Just my $0.02:thinkerg:
Viscosity Index Improvers (VII) are a polymer of which the molecules are much like a tangle of string. When they are cold the tangle shrinks, when they heat up the tangle expands.
To make a multi-viscosity engine oil, like an SAE 5W-30, you start with a thin "base" oil and add the VII to it.
When the oil is cold the VII shrinks and the thin oil flows easily passed the VII molecules. Viscosity is "resistance to flow" so in this case the oil flows easily so is regarded as thin at a low temperature such as - 25 deg C, eg. SAE 5W.
When the oil heats up, so does the VII and it expands. Now the thin oil (which has also thinned out as the temperature has increased) has difficulty passing the VII molecules, it flows slower, so it is described as being thicker, eg. SAE 30. However this means it is thicker at the high temperature (100 deg C) that engine oil is measured at than the non-VII treated oil would be.
Now VII molecules come in different sizes. Larger molecules are more effective at slowing oil flow, or thickening the oil. So less of a large molecule VII needs to be used to get the same multi-viscosity effect. You have to use more of a smaller molecule VII to get the same oil thickening effect.
BUT, and ain't there always a "but"! The larger VII molecules get "sheared" down easily, that is they get chopped up into smaller VII molecules, and then there isn't enough of them to provide the oil thickening effect. So what was an SAE 15W-40 made from a large molecule VII will become something like a SAE 5W-20 or worse. This is called "permanent shear", it is irreversible.
A multi-grade engine oil made from smaller molecule VIIs will cost more - more VII and it is more expensive - but will resist shear down.
Now where I've said "VII thickens the oil", you should realise that at low temperatures any oil is really thick. What a VII does is slow down the thinning of an oil as temperature rises. Comparing just the thin base oil with the thin base oil plus added VII, the base oil will be slightly thinner at low temperature (the VII will thicken the base oil slightly). As the temperature rises both oils thin out, just that the VII treated oil will thin out less over the same temperature rise, until at 100 deg C the VII treated oil will be considerably thicker than the base oil at 100 deg C.
Then there is "temporary shear". This is where a VII treated oil passes between two moving surfaces, the piston rings and the cylinder wall is a great example. In that narrow gap the VII molecule tends to get stretched out from a tangle into a line and its oil thickening effect is lessened. However when it gets out of that stretch zone, the VII moecule returns again to its tangled state and its oil thickening effect returns. Thats temporary VII shear.
Best this you can do for your motor is learn to let it warm up before driving away.
Just my $0.02:thinkerg:
Question. How often are you guys changing the transfer case oil and the differentials? Also what type of gear oil is the best for the fj? Thanks in advance.
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It's not about the miles it's about the hours.
Back when i was living on Canada I would base my oil changes on running engine hours because when it gets cold (-20 tru -40 and beyond) I let my FJ warm up. No miles being put on but still putting on time.
Back when i was living on Canada I would base my oil changes on running engine hours because when it gets cold (-20 tru -40 and beyond) I let my FJ warm up. No miles being put on but still putting on time.
This thread is annoying...
People who have never used and tested Amsoil and are bashing how to use it need to be quiet.
I have used Amsoil in my Race car, boat, DD and towing rigs and it has never failed.
Racecar... 600HP 2.5L 4cyl
10k intervals ran Amsoil w/ Zinc addative. Sent samples in and still had 83% oil life left in it.
Towing Rig
We tested my buddys cummins. Used the bypass filter system.
Forgot specificly which amsoil we used but changing out filters at 25K we ran the oil to 50k miles. This is towing a 5th wheel 8 to 9 times a year accross country. Oil still had 75% life when we sent it in. We are currently doing a 75K mile test now.
DD. 2004 Dodge ram v6
Oil gets changed once a year. We dont care how many miles get put on it. Oil still comes out clean.
You can preach your vast knowledge about what youve used in the past and what the internet says you can and cant do and promote whatever company someones feeding suitcases of money to lie about...Im using AMSoil. Ive proved to myself and everyone else thats seen us do it.
FJ is do for its first oil change since ive owned it and ive already talked to the dealership about it. Im changing all my fluids to amsoil and im doing the filter bypass and im running it to 25k.
People who have never used and tested Amsoil and are bashing how to use it need to be quiet.
I have used Amsoil in my Race car, boat, DD and towing rigs and it has never failed.
Racecar... 600HP 2.5L 4cyl
10k intervals ran Amsoil w/ Zinc addative. Sent samples in and still had 83% oil life left in it.
Towing Rig
We tested my buddys cummins. Used the bypass filter system.
Forgot specificly which amsoil we used but changing out filters at 25K we ran the oil to 50k miles. This is towing a 5th wheel 8 to 9 times a year accross country. Oil still had 75% life when we sent it in. We are currently doing a 75K mile test now.
DD. 2004 Dodge ram v6
Oil gets changed once a year. We dont care how many miles get put on it. Oil still comes out clean.
You can preach your vast knowledge about what youve used in the past and what the internet says you can and cant do and promote whatever company someones feeding suitcases of money to lie about...Im using AMSoil. Ive proved to myself and everyone else thats seen us do it.
FJ is do for its first oil change since ive owned it and ive already talked to the dealership about it. Im changing all my fluids to amsoil and im doing the filter bypass and im running it to 25k.
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